As some of you may or may not know, I battle with Gussets.
Being a larger woman, with more..endowments....it can be a challenge when setting gussets to contain a more ample situation.
A friend of mine has done a bit of research, in fact, almost all the ladies I know in The Oregon Regency Society have done their fair share in how gussets should handle their various assets.
The consensus is that no one is shaped the same, so each stay and gusset can be different. See, the trick really is to make a curve. Fabric is a two dimensional media, but unlike a lot of things, it can be manipulated into a three dimensional.
Here is the difference.
Ms. Megan Funk, aka Mistress of the Universe has an excellent photo using the Sense and Sensibility pattern.
As you can see on the right, this is how the gussets can tend to stay flat, and depending on your assets, that may work... on the left, Ms Funk went and altered hers by taking the slit made for the gussets and shortening them 3/8s of an inch and than stretching the bottom to fit more of the original gusset size and top stitching. This has made her stays fit like a glove and provide support for the duration. No one likes to have to make "adjustments" to the assets mid-event.
Here is my interpretation of Ms. Funks adjustment.
I am more ample than Ms Funk, but the basic idea still applies. I did what she did, but I didn't alter the length of the gusset slit, as I know this to be the right length for me, since this is a drafted pattern for Miss Robertson and we have similar dimensions. (thanks going to Mrs. Johanesen) So, instead of clipping the ends to add enough room for the bottom of the gusset, I stretched and pulled and since I am using fabric that is as close to coutil as you can get at Mill End, it didn't rip and I was able to get some stitching in. I have yet to get some eyelets in so I can try it on, but I am fairly certain that this will indeed make a more "Egg like" cup, which will help to maintain a more Regency silhouette.
In closing, I would like to give all ladies a bit of consolation. No matter your shape or size, with practice and experimentation, you too can have the silhouette we all adore.
Now, go listen to your Pride and Prejudice Pandora station and carry on with your sewing.
Oh, wait..that's me. lol
Mrs. Azevedo, The Baronets Daughter