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Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Stays-the battle continues

As some of you may or may not know, I battle with Gussets.

Being a larger woman, with more..endowments....it can be a challenge when setting gussets to contain a more ample situation.
A friend of mine has done a bit of research, in fact, almost all the ladies I know in The Oregon Regency Society have done their fair share in how gussets should handle their various assets.

The consensus is that no one is shaped the same, so each stay and gusset can be different. See, the trick really is to make a curve. Fabric is a two dimensional media, but unlike a lot of things, it can be manipulated into a three dimensional.

Here is the difference.

Ms. Megan Funk, aka Mistress of the Universe has an excellent photo using the Sense and Sensibility pattern.


As you can see on the right, this is how the gussets can tend to stay flat, and depending on your assets, that may work... on the left, Ms Funk went and altered hers by taking the slit made for the gussets and shortening them 3/8s of an inch and than stretching the bottom to fit more of the original gusset size and top stitching. This has made her stays fit like a glove and provide support for the duration. No one likes to have to make "adjustments" to the assets mid-event.

Here is my interpretation of Ms. Funks adjustment.



I am more ample than Ms Funk, but the basic idea still applies. I did what she did, but I didn't alter the length of the gusset slit, as I know this to be the right length for me, since this is a drafted pattern for Miss Robertson and we have similar dimensions. (thanks going to Mrs. Johanesen) So, instead of clipping the ends to add enough room for the bottom of the gusset, I stretched and pulled and since I am using fabric that is as close to coutil as you can get at Mill End, it didn't rip and I was able to get some stitching in. I have yet to get some eyelets in so I can try it on, but I am fairly certain that this will indeed make a more "Egg like" cup, which will help to maintain a more Regency silhouette.

In closing, I would like to give all ladies a bit of consolation. No matter your shape or size, with practice and experimentation, you too can have the silhouette we all adore.

Now, go listen to your Pride and Prejudice Pandora station and carry on with your sewing.
Oh, wait..that's me. lol

Adieu

Mrs. Azevedo, The Baronets Daughter

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Birthday presents. letters and pirates

So, my birthday is January 14th, but as I was out of town, and due to the fact that its not about presents, I received my "birthday" present from Mrs. Cunningham (who's birthday is today and her presents hasn't arrived yet..stupid Amazon..but I digress) in the form of two AMAZING wax seals and wax to use with them.

Yes, I received the N I requested, for my first name and it is delicate and lovely and can be converted to a necklace. SCORE!

Than, as a bonus, I received a SKULL AND CROSS BONES! For anyone who knows me at all knows that besides the lovely, elegant and mannerly regency that is my love, I am convinced that I should have been a pirate. I should have been one of those intrepid ladies who decided that she was going to pillage and live like a man, while retaining those delicate but razor sharp female sensibilities.

Like these ladies-Mary Reed and Anne Bonny and the lovely lady with parrot and eye patch.




The N Seal is delicate and very regency like and I will use that in my normal correspondence, as I am participating in a month of letters www.lettermo.com and I have to say, I really get a kick out of receiving them, but the writing is by far the most fun.

Here is my letter writing set up:


This has everything I need...a candle, the wax, my two seals and the correspondence I need to reply too.

Here are the seals and what they look like once applied..(as best as my little camera can do)





Needless to say, I love this set and will use it a lot, both of them. Mrs. Cunningham is most genius. I just hope that she enjoys the waffles that The Hungarican Chick and I will be making her tomorrow while we cackle around the dying pot. I will be posting about the adventures in dying cloth tomorrow.

I will leave you with a photo of my red flower, made today with red dupioni ribbon cut on across the grain and finished with a vintage button given to me by the ladies at the Button Emporium and Ribbonry. See, I told you they are awesome.


Good Night.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Another Guilty Pleasure

Ribbons.

Yes, some of you may think of these things as trivial, but they are an integral part of any regency bonnet or dress. Ribbons are used for drawstrings and trimmings and flowers and fixtures.

I myself am remiss in taking photos for a small article of silk ribbon flowers for the Belletrist online magazine that Mrs. Sarah Bernsdorff is assembling. (I will blog about it once I get my rear in gear and make it happen) I just can't seem to make it happen and my deadline is fast approaching.

Making silk flowers is easy really, the ladies at the Button Emporium and Ribonry taught me. But until I get my tutorial photos out, and if you can't see these ladies, there are many books about ribbon flowers.

I cannot speak more highly of the owners and staff at The Button Emporium and Ribonry. This little shop is the definition of fantastic and if you aren't lucky enough to be able to shop there in person, like I am, please visit them here

Not only do they have ribbons of all colors, sizes and designs, they really are helpful and knowledgeable. I can not count on all my appendages how many times I have come into their beautifully appointed store looking for something with only a vague idea or color scheme and they ALWAYS know what I need. Its like clairvoyance or something, because I never ever walk out of that place disappointed. They always remember me and my projects and they give members of the ORS an automatic 10% discount on your entire order.

I could gush for ever, and very well could spend my entire paycheck there if given licence, but I will close with this: Ribbons are integral, don't be afraid of them, they are resilient and with the correct amount, size and shape, they enhance and beautiful any Regency Ensemble.

Good Night and Good Browsing.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

My Guilty Pleasures



So, knowing as you do how much I love Regency Clothes and Manners, let me introduce you to something of a guilty pleasure:

Carriages

I have always thought that if I had lived in the regency era, with a birthday of 1779 instead of 1979, I would be a woman of independence, as I am now. But, instead of driving a car, I believe I would opt for a High Perched Phaeton.

Much like the one a certain Scoundrel drives Miss Marianne around in, except, I would hold the leads. Yes, I would like to drive one. Don't get me wrong, sitting next to a smartly dressed beau would be preferable, but I do enjoy the thrill of being in control.

A Cousin of mine sent me some lovely photos of carriages of all shapes and sizes. I would like to share a few with you, my special favourites indeed.







I can imagine a perfectly matched Pair of Greys prancing perfectly while I cruise down Bond Street with my Tiger holding on for dear life and my ladies maid red with embarrassment. Or instead of a ladies maid as a chaperone, my own dear Mrs. Cunningham and I racing down the street to scandal and renown. :)

As for that, I am at a loss. I have been thinking of this post all day while at work as well as the letter I am going to now write, in the old style, to my mother. This will kick off my month of letter writing. You should try it, you might like it...the letter writing too.

If there is anyone who has a carriage and would be happy to let me give it a go, I can handle 100 horse power, I bet two horse power would be easy.

If you like this blog about guilty pleasures, you may like this one:

Good Night, and Adieu