Sunday, April 15, 2012


This project of stays has been a challenge to all my meager skills and I have to toot my own horn on this one. The cups/gussets on this do EXACTLY what I want and need them to do and that is keep a high busted empire line set of ladies. A good fashion plate example of what we are shooting for is a la Dames A La Mode for Feb 1812
So, as in my last post about stays, I struggled with the gussets. They are really something that every accomplished stay maker should master. I wouldn't say I am close to mastery, but I have definitely made some strides. So, at a second fitting, this is what they did for my client. The gussets where unlined and it was un-bound, but I would say....we achieved more than I could have hoped for.
I would say the shelf has been achieved. Holy cow! We could all be so blessed. I didn't attempt this in a conventional way as I draped and used a hand made pattern and i lined it after i boned it and I quilted it and THAN I hand lined the gussets. I am a masochist. Truely. I did it the hard way..but here is how it turned out the quilting on the inside. I attached the lining by hand without a pattern. I quilted it and encased the bones while I went. I used a combination of covered plastic and metal
Hand lined and sewed gusset
the gussets from the tops
the whole thing
I know Pride may be a virtue or a sin, but considering how much I have gone through, sewing, taking it apart and trying again...yeah, I have made something I am proud to put my name on and sell. I have touched the high standard bar. Next time, I will raise it higher. Now onto the dress. I have draped it and will be refining and continuing on with that. I will take pictures today and blog when I'm done. Mrs. Azevedo, Modiste and a Baronets Daughter

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