Franken-form

As many of you may know, I am not a small woman, in fact, some would say anything from Fat (oh the shame!) to Plus size to BBW. What ever way you call it, Im a big girl and there is not a dress form out there any where close to my size, much less my shape. I am one of those who has hips of doom, a much smaller waist and a medium size bust, comparatively speaking.

So, while reading the lovely American Duchess' post on franken-lillie I began to dream on how to make my old school, very unlike a female, dress form into something closer to my shape, in the very least girth.

Here I am at the ORS 5th Annual Pittock Mansion picnic in the Rose Gown. If you have seen what it looks like on the dressform, you see the difference once it is on me.

Yes, I did big feathers. Go big or go home is my motto sometimes. :)

So, as you can see, I needed a better dress size. Well, I searched far and wide, and ended up adding to my current dress form, using my older set of stays, a pillow, a king size sheet and various pieces of muslin.

it isn't elegant, but it fits the petticoat i have been working on that i know fits to a T on me. I needed a way to drape on something, even if it is not perfect, so that I would feel better about making things for myself. Now, I can. I have to say, the stuffing of the corset while on the dress form was not entirely my idea. I was definitely inspired not only by American Duchess but by Mrs. Amanda Gentry, my particular friend, who brought her things down and had a sewing marathon with myself and Aria on Saturday night. She is small, but she stuff plastic bags into hers to get the right proportions. No one, big or small is exempt. When will the industry get that they don't make anything close to real proportions?

sigh.
Anyways, I am airing out the trunk for the retreat, have a stack of regency clothes to make for myself as well as Mrs. Roll and so will not be taking anymore commissions until I get back.

Cheers!

Mrs. Azevedo, Modiste and a Baronets' Daughter.

Busy Bee

Allow me to apologize. I have been remiss in my blogging because I have been a busy busy bee!

I have made myself a round gown for the Pittock Mansion picnic

a pattern of my own.

and a round gown for Mrs. Cunningham for the Pittock Mansion Picnic

she gave me her measurements and the fabric..and POW!

And than, I was invited to Stitch and Bitch with Lady Sully, of Lady of Portland House and her particular friend Mrs. Cartwright. That was great fun which I hope to repeat in the future as I have a new gown planned for me and Mrs. Cunningham gave me the fabric to do it!

Dorset Buttons

RED FABRIC!!!!!

 

 

 

I have come across a lovely fashion plate I would like to recreate by hand....

I need this dress and the reticule!

I was gifted with the fabric. I will post my progress. I have made delivery of the fall front trousers to my Patroness at Wells & Verne and hope to have pictures soon. I also owe her 5 more pairs for her shop. WOW!


This past weekend I made a trip to see my lovely friends in Washington, all Charter members of the Washington Regency Society and we had quite a bit of fun and it was nice to step away from the sewing machine, but, Mrs. Mari Roll would not give me much of a reprieve as she was kind enough to take me to an amazing brunch and bestow some more commissions on me. I am thankful, as idol hands get me in trouble! So, I have two gowns to make for her before the retreat as well as a dressing gown and possibly a Spencer, if I can get to it, but I’m thinking..with the red velvet she gave me, that would be more of a fall Spencer material. She also wants me to make two dresses for her nieces, a la Marilyn...like this dress

Luckily, that wont be till after the retreat. I also want to make myself a purple gown and a white chemise to wear under my black robe..I also want to make myself a blue robe.

Wish me luck, since, I am now going to be working like a maniac for a while as well as sewing, and I have a kindle now. I can sleep when I'm dead, right?

Thank you for being patient and for reading my blog. Good Evening,

Mrs. Nora Azevedo
Modiste, and A Baronet's Daughter

The Rose Dress, completed.

Well, the Rose dress is done! I have posted some pictures on my facebook, but I thought it appropriate to let you all know its done!

I decided to go with a round gown form, as I had something like 8 yards to use, which, surprisingly, I didn't use it all. I got this lovely polished cotton rose pattern from a little Middle Eastern dude in the Fashion District in LA. If any of you are costume/clothier enthusiasts, I recommend saving up a small wad and going on down there. It can be a bit intimidating, and there is a lot to wade through, but it is soooo worth it. This lovely piece of 60+ inch wide polished cotton was only $2 a yard! booya!

So, here is the pictures! Enjoy!

Eliza Jane had to inspect it, of course, the fabric passed muster.

adding the drawstring

had to baste by hand the sleeve, since i had to do the fit on myself..took a couple of tries

at 1am, the stars told me to go to sleep

bodice finished

DONE! (except the hem on the sleeves. muah ha ha ha)

I plan on wearing this at the Pittock Mansion Picnic at the end of the month. I have a shallow brim hat to wear too..Yay!

Now, onto the pants. I keep putting them off, but I really need to get on them!

I'll keep you posted.

Nora A, Modiste, and A Baronets' Daughter

Hiatus-a dress for me!

Some months ago, I went on vacation to San Diego and we drove to the fashion district in LA. I knew that I was looking for a lovely piece of fabric and a ridiculously cheap price. I found it! This is 8 yards of polished cotton that the gentleman measured out with a yard stick and tore with his teeth. The end is almost perfectly straight. I have been thinking about what to make with this, because it is a slightly Georgian print. I will make a round gown that is entirely draw-stringed so that there aren't any fasteners. I will have the bodice tie at the waist as well as at the neckline. I think it will look lovely.

$2 a yard in LA. I should have gotten the blue as well

The pattern I drew out. I like having new things with new patterns

While sewing the mock up together, my bobbin ran out. That means time to stop for the night

I have been sewing new modern clothes so much lately, I forgot how fast I am at regency as well as how much I love making it. I was a little hesitant to cut the fabric, being that if I mess up, there is not way to get more...but I think I am over that. It took less than an hour from draft to mock up. excellent

Mock up almost done..just need to put some channels in and some drawstrings  and its ready to try on!

I will post once the mock up fits and is cut into the fashion fabric. I really need to use my down time wisely, and get my Retreat wardrobe up to snuff so I can focus on my next two commissions. Luckily, they are for Mrs. Mari Roll, and they are regency. Yay!

I almost forgot the Fall Front pants. Do not fear, I will be on it..this dress very well could be done tomorrow...

Your Modiste, and a Baronets Daughter,

Nora Azevedo

1930's Dress Commission COMPLETED

I have to say, that when I took this on, I was daunted, I knew that it would be a challenge, and I love challenges. This one pushed my creative process to the limit (we all have one, writers and seamstresses and actors etc...we all have a cycle). I would like to give a shout out to Aria, proprietress of Aria Couture and a new friend of mine who I know will become a staple here at ABD Designs. She was instrumental in getting me through my process while sharing her extensive know how with me. Trial by fire and error happens to me, and did during this as well, but she helped me make less of those. And she's awesome. Even The Petite Charlotte "helped". I would also like to shout out to Melody Rossiter,  the drafting guru! She was instrumental in the process of taking the pattern given and turning it into the back that Mrs. Mari wanted.

The measurements she sent me were a little odd, including a 29 inch waist and a 41 inch hip, but being who I am with a 15 inch difference in the measurements of my waist and hips, I made to her specs.

So, I will close with the pics. I now have a no sew day tomorrow, followed by an article for The Belletrist for Mrs. Cunningham as well sewing on Thursday to make diaper covers for little Master Logan and a trip to Seattle to make visits than on to the mock up for the fall front pants that have been tentatively ordered by the proprietress of Wells and Verne. If she likes the mock up, we will start the process to get my trousers into a store. No rest for the weary. :) Yay!

The Petite Charlotte helping. We will make a seamstress out of her yet!

A great shot of the back

The front on the dress form. It was not cooperating with being put on the dress form, so I tacked it on

The finished back

The zipper...Its perfect..Thanks Aria for your help

packaged up

And Ready to go. 

So, with a big sigh of relief, I bid you adieu and good night!!

Nora Azevedo, Modiste and A Baronet's Daughter.

1930's

A fellow custom enthusiast has commissioned me to make a 30's dress for her. I took the opportunity to learn and master something closer to modern clothes and so I accepted.

The Red one is the shape she wants. I have artistic license on it, as she wants the back to plunge and I have made that happen.

I have done multiple mock ups and have hit a wall, but, I know that once I sleep and get back to it, the wall will be scaled. The sleeves are now my bane. I will be adding to the top so that the low waist is  appropriate and than I will be drafting the skirt, as she has a tiny waist and flared hips. She will look AMAZING but, I have to get over my wall.

Here is the front and the back of my latest mock up. I'm tired, and will be adding inches to the back in the top tomorrow and than working on the skirt.

I think the other problem is that the dressform is, for lack of a better word..ghetto. Perhaps, if I am good, someday I will have a better one.

Enjoy my mock up

Little Things

There are few things that are consistently lovely, pretty and joyful, and I have to say they are all shoved into the Little Things shop on Lovejoy here in Beautiful Portland Oregon.

The proprietress, Andrea Angell not only keeps all the loveliness of other local Portland artisans, she has her own line of jewelry as well.

I am proud to say that ABD designs, a non regency-clothing division of A Baronets' Daughter Designs, now has a few little tidbits in there to add to her collection, and yes, you can come into her corner of beauty and pick some great things up. There are purses, and pinata's and jewelry and nicknack's of all shapes and sizes.

Do yourself a solid and either go see her, or purchase something fantastic on her website.

Thanks for checking my website out and hers as well. I am currently working on a Rockabilly dress and will be debuting it on here soon.

Apparently, my talents are asked for in more than just my all time favorite type of fashion.

More as it comes in .